Hiroshima

The train to Hiroshima was busy on the morning we planned to travel there. Unfortunately we were unable to reserve seats as it was fully booked. This meant we would have to arrive early in order to gain seats in the unreserved carriages. This was fine by us, as we wanted to get there early to avoid getting disastrously lost in the station again. Turns out though that strangers are very happy to help and pointed us in the right direction, meaning we were on the platform bright and early. When the train arrived we all crammed on and somehow managed bag ourselves some window seats. Just like the airport train, our train that day left on the dot and sped away at 200mph. Japanese trains are not like those in Britain. It was definitely the most comfortable train journey we have ever had.

Arriving into Hiroshima station we walked around 15minutes to our accommodation, Guesthouse Poptone. The owner was really friendly but spoke only a little English. We had booked to stay for only one night therefore did not delay in heading out to explore the historically rich city. We were lucky that during our visit we just managed to catch the end of cherry blossom season, which meant thousands of pink fluffy petals showered the streets. We ate an early lunch at a quaint Italian restaurant before proceeding to the tourist spots. Hiroshima is a city known to many around the world due to the catastrophic event that occurred at the end of WW2. At 8.15am August 6th 1945, the city of Hiroshima was largely destroyed when US forces dropped the world’s first atomic bomb, instantly killing approximately 80,000 civilians. The death toll did not end there however. Tens of thousands more victims succumbing to radiation poisoning in the following days, months and even years later. Three days after Hiroshima was decimated, Nagasaki was similarly bombed. The first place we visited was the A-bomb Dome, a building which partly managed to withstand the blast but clearly displays the horrifying effects of the bomb. The dome of this once elegant building is now only a skeleton of twisted metal and despite many of the outer walls holding strong, it is reported that all those inside at the time died immediately when the bomb detonated. Considering the bomb exploded approximately 600m above and 160m southeast of the building, it is incredible anything remains at all. The building’s remains are preserved in memorial of the bombing and in 1996 it was registered as a World Heritage Site.

Just across the river from the A-bomb dome lies the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. The park is dedicated to the legacy of Hiroshima as the first city to suffer a nuclear attack. It commemorates the memories of the estimated 140,000 victims who were directly and indirectly affected by the bombing in 1945. First we visited a monument dedicated to foreign students who perished whilst studying in Hiroshima at the time of the attack. Crossing the bridge into the main park, which is actually a small island on the river, we were met by a second memorial statue called the Children’s Peace Monument. This commemorates the life of Sadako Sasaki, as well as many other children who died due to radiation caused by the bomb. Sasaki died as a result of radiation-induced Leukaemia at the age of 12, in 1955. Her figure has been immortalised holding a large metal origami crane at the top of the monument, surrounded by flying angels. Before she died she set herself a challenge to create a thousand origami paper cranes. In Japanese tradition it is said that if one creates a thousand cranes they are granted a wish. This little girl’s wish was to free the world of nuclear weapons. There are display cases surrounding the monument holding thousands of origami cranes sent from all around the world as a symbol of peace. Further into the park, the Peace Flame can be seen. This flame has been burning 24hours a day since 1964 and will continue to do so until a global ban on nuclear weapons is implemented. At the centre of the park is a concrete, saddle-shaped monument that overlies a cenotaph holding the names of all of the people killed by the bomb. As you peer through the monument, the Peace Flame and the A-Bomb Dome align within the arch shaped frame. Lastly we visited the National Peace Memorial Hall. Inside an underground cylindrical room, a 360degree stone carving displays the landscape post-bomb and 140,000 tiles lie below representing the number of victims.

After our somber visit at the peace memorial park, we ventured out of the city to Itsukushima. Itsukushima, also known as Miyajima, is a small island in Hiroshima bay. We travelled firstly on the train departing from Yokohama station to Miyajimaguchi station. Once here, we boarded a ferry for 10mins across the bay to Miyajima pier. On the shoreline of the island, the vibrant orange Itsukushima shrine immediately catches the eye. Upon disembarking, the local residents immediately came to welcome us. When I say “local residents” I am referring to the population of wild but friendly deer that inhabit the island. The deer show no fear towards humans but they certainly get a bit too close if you are holding something edible. A short walk brought us to the waters edge where we could marvel at the shrine in its beautiful surroundings. Starbucks caramel macchiatos in hand, we snuggled up and enjoyed the view whilst deers sauntered by. 

Cold but happy we returned to the hostel to check in properly. We would be staying in a 24bed dorm for the night; naturally I expected I wouldn’t be able to sleep at all. The vibe at the hostel however was very chilled out. Luke and I went in search of dinner, ending up at a restaurant occupied mostly by what appeared to be business men having after work drinks. We enjoyed some tasty Japanese tapas sized dishes and a well deserved Sapporo beer. We had reserved seats on a train to Kyoto the next day and felt a bit sad to be saying goodbye to Hiroshima after our fleeting visit. This beautiful city rebuilt from ashes, is one of my favourites so far. 

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