Chasing waterfalls

Making our way south down Bruce Highway, we decided to camp for the night at a free site very near to Josephine Falls. This led us 5km off the main road and towards Wooroonooran National Park. The campsite was a large grassy clearing in the forest, right beside Russell River. To our surprise we were the only campers here! Before setting up for dinner we strolled down the small pathway to the river to enjoy the last of the views over the tropical forest before the sunset. Although the crystal clear waters of the river looked inviting, the multiple signs warning of crocodiles effectively deterred us from swimming. We didn’t spot any crocs but did spy a small terrapin turtle and some fish. We set up our camp and enjoyed a beer whilst cooking dinner; a fine feed of chicken breast and potatoes cooked outside over the gas stoves. By the time we ate it was rapidly getting dark, meaning a rather hurried clean in the toilet block before climbing into the camper to escape biting insects. The toilets were not pleasant but serve their purpose. We set up the canvas tent extension over the boot for the first time, so as to avoid the unbearably hot sleeping conditions we had put up with the previous night. This gave us more ventilation, making the van much more comfortable. It did however mean that we were essentially sleeping with our heads outside of the car, with only a tent to cover us. This in turn meant we could hear everything outside. Whether it be the river, snapping of twigs in the woods and to my horror at 12am, people’s voices echoing in the darkness. Because we had set up camp alone in this remote site, it was then unnerving to hear voices. Rapidly awaking Luke with my tossing and turning, he reassured me there was a house in the woods nearby and that’s likely where the voices were coming from. Finally, we both settled back to sleep, although one of us more restlessly than the other. By 6am the clearing was flooded with sunlight providing us an early wake up call. 

After breakfast and packing up camp, we drove back down the narrow country road to Josephine Falls. Due to the early rise we were amongst the first arrivals to visit the falls, discovering only one other car in the car park when we pulled up. A pathway though the forest lead to platforms overlooking the waterfall. Below lay a large natural pool formed between the waterfalls. Hastily, due to the icy cold water, we eventually took the plunge and went for a dip. The current from the falls was quite strong but despite this we managed to swim towards the smooth sloping rock that the water flowed down. This rock essentially forms a natural waterslide. By this time we weren’t alone, as a full bus load of tourists had now arrived. They being a bit braver than us, went first sliding courageously (or stupidly) down the rock. After an observation period, we decided no one had broken their legs so it was time for us to go down. I’m so glad we didn’t wimp out, it was super fun! Legs intact we got out of the pool and made our way back to the camper to warm up. Our next stop along the road was to another waterfall called Milla Milla, therefore we didn’t bother getting changed. People driving past might’ve thought we looked a tad strange as we sat in just our swimwear, especially due to the fact the skies were now pouring with rain. The views of hills and farmland along the way to Milla Milla were very scenic despite the grey weather. Thankfully the weather brightened when we arrived at the waterfall and we hurriedly made our way towards the natural beauty before it turned again. Our window of sunshine was very short but we did manage to get a snap of the falls before it clouded over. Swimming across the pool, we climbed the rocks and sat catching our breaths whilst enjoying the sight of the cascading water. With the rain catching up with us, we returned to the camper for a quick lunch before heading to our next camping spot for the night. 

The Feluga Hotel was our next overnight destination. Here they offered free camping on the grassy areas around the hotel. The only way I can describe this place is if you imagine a western tavern and the inhabitants cowboys. It was strange atmosphere but after enquiring at the bar the owner was more than happy to let us park up out the back of the bar. He showed us around bare foot, although we came to discover this was absolutely normal as we travelled more in Australia. We got showers and made food by the side of the van before heading into the bar for a drink later on. A few curious punters came out to have a look and a chat with us sitting by our van whilst they had a smoke. Despite the initially hostile appearances they were all very friendly if not a bit drunk. We met a German guy called Michael, who had been cycling around the world. Just that day he had cycled over 100km. It rained during the night but tucked underneath a large tree we slept soundly. The following morning we headed towards another waterfall, except this time it was one that Michael had actually recommended. He said it was just off the highway and definitely worth visiting. Entering the park involved driving down a small dirt track and even through streams running across the road. This may not seem a big deal driving through some flooded road but when you’re driving a Toyota Estema that is almost as old as you are, it is slightly more stressful. Van intact we parked and began walking towards the falls, not before having a quick lunch and making friends with a brush turkey. There were also lots of horrible black flies that were determined to be our friends, as they buzzed around our faces constantly. A small branch to swat them away came in very handy. After 20minutes of walking forest tracks we reached a walkway crossing through the water, leading to a sharply inclining path. Struggling to catch breath we reached the viewpoint summit providing a gobsmacking view of Jourunda Falls in the distance. Jourunda Falls were by far the biggest waterfalls we had seen in Australia so far and delivered an impressive sight.